Nestled between China and Russia is one of the planet's final frontiers: Mongolia, the old stomping ground of Chinggis Khan.
Ulaan Bataar is not the main reason to come to Mongolia.
While here it is worthwhile visiting the museums, the square, the big Buddhist temple and catching one of the cultural shows that include the dance, costumes and, most wonderfully, the Tuvan throat singers.
They move their gers (known as yurts in Russian) four times a year to find grass for their livestock.
Our first morning camping brought us rain, a flat tire and a dead jeep.
Everywhere are "Ovoos", which are mounds of rocks with offerings like blue scarves (for the sky god), bottles, crutches, money, tires, etc.
Camels are actually quite comfortable (at least I think so now after four days on a thin saddle and a bumpy horse).
The gers were great; round, portable, warm and some quite homey.